Dag 26 - Wednesday the 12th July 2000

Bad Lauterberg - Stöcken
177 km. Total 3959 km

"In spite of ourselves we'll end up sitting on a rainbow"

Once again I had a morning which was unbearably cold. It had rained during the night and it still drizzled. I left about 6 a.m. I had promised John that I would sneak away. The distance to the top of the mountain, where you have a view to "Brocken", was not as hard as I had expected. I met an ascent of 10 % over 2-3 kilometres, and then it was rather flat towards the end.

GERMANY MAP WITH THE HARZ

And then I was there.
Yuk.
Nothing to see, absolutely nothing. Thick fog, rain and cutting cold. On the top it's a carnival. It's nothing but a tourist trap. I pottered about and felt like buying a small cup of coffee for my health.
DM 2.30.
Robbery! On the whole most of the Harz is a tourist trap in my opinion. It's not the best place for me.

Damn. I am sorry about my exclamation, but it describes in so many words the ride down the mountain. 9 km where the drop most of the time was about 10 %. Not very nice. Very bad indeed. Shaking from the cold I rode into Bad Harzburg, where the sky was clear and it was much warmer, but I needed a little time to recover.
It was difficult to find the way out of the town because it was only a Highway. By means of my compass I finally managed to take bearing of a northbound route. Suddenly my journey was stopped by a detour sign. And after a couple of kilometres the detour continued on the high way, and left me standing there gaping at that sight. Annoyed? Not at all. I was furious.. All in all I think the detour was over 8-10 km.

Thank God I am now in a baker's shop in Vienenburg. But I must say they are a bit special here too. The lady insisted on getting the money before she would supply me with my bread. She claimed, that a lot of customers disappeared before they had paid for the bread. She got her money and I got my bread.

I have plotted the coming route into my map.

I think it's flat, but that was what I thought yesterday too. I think I forgot to mention in my fit of bad temper, that the roads on the mountain was pested by "Roll split", which means that they make a mess of the road by pouring out asphalt and then sprinkle pebbles over the whole lot. To return to the difficult art of diplomacy I may perhaps suggest that this morning was a little bit awkward. Now the route will be: Schladen - Hornburg - Obersickte - Cremlingen.

Kalme 12.27. (80 km) About 30 kilometres south of Braunschweig.
I just had the first flat of this trip on the rear wheel. Of course it happened on a highway up a steep hill. I am now having a lunch break. (Meat salad, bread and coke) I know a lot of people who would not eat a meal like that. But I think it's suitable for someone like me. I had to buy 2 batteries for my camera. Extremely expensive. I also bought 2 films. It's cold now (13 degr. C) and the wind is blowing much more. The landscape has changed. It now looks much more farm land to me. I still have long tough hills. A moment ago a baker's car passed by, ringing a small bell. A lady is waiting at a bus stop. The only thing I can hear is the song of the birds. There are dark clouds in the sky. I am sure I will have much more rain.

This will be another hard working day.

It did not go too bad after all. Little by little the hills grew smaller and just south of Braunschweig they disappeared. The roads were very good and the wind was half crosswind, half tail wind. The last 20 kilometres before Witingen were through a moor. Quite beautiful and interesting.

I have now found a very good place in a wood. I have had no rain today, but now (7.48 p.m.) it's beginning. It got very wild today when the temperature went up to 14 degr. C, but now it has dropped to 11. Some summer weather!

Tomorrow I am going to use the very last map of Germany, and that's a very nice sensation. But I still have a lot of Germany left. Now I will ride in places I have been to before. I dare not think about how many kilometres I still have left. I might get depressed It's no secret that I want to get home now as soon as possible. Nothing special happened today, and I did not meet any funny people at all. Now I will dive into my tent to check out the weather forecast. I think I know what it will be.
Good night.

FACT BOX
THE PREPARATIONS

Of course it will be combined with considerable difficulties, if you ride 5000 km through Europe without even having trained. Sometimes you hear about people, who complete long bicycle rides without any preparation at all, but in my opinion it gets much more funny if you are well prepared.

Through the last 10 years I have ridden about 150.000 km and from January this year until I started the trip, I had ridden 5946 km, which is more or less, what I had planned.

The weight might be of interest to some people, but when I reveal that my weight is one of the few secrets I keep to myself when talking about bicycling, I might also have indicated that it's not perfect at all.
"Don't be a nuisance to yourself" an acquaintance of mine said to me some years ago, when we discussed this subject.
I try not to.

Very few people will assume that I am in the risk group of patients with acute anorexia, but nevertheless I do not look upon my weight as a problem.
"You need your power, when you ride", another of my acquaintances remarked.

In my case it's more or less a question of cosmetics and aesthetics. It may well be true that I could have ridden op the Silvretta mountain half an hour faster, if I had been slender as a teenager. And so what?
Here I feel like adding that when I am away on my long trips I can eat whatever I feel like and still loose weight. And when your favourite dish is "food" this is an absolutely wonderful situation. Later on you must explain to your metabolism in private that the party is over.

But as a matter of fact it's not on the road most problems are solved.
No, it's in your head.
If you one late rainy afternoon, with a sore throat, have strayed into a 16 % ascent on a highway where you have just been passed by an 18 tons truck with a trailer at a distance of 9 centimetres, and you at the same time realize that you have a flat on the front wheel and have a broken spoke in the tiresome side of the rear wheel, the one wit the gear wheel, then it's not at all your physical reserves you are going to summon up.
No it's in your head.
I may have exaggerated a little bit, when I mention these incidents, but you can depend on me when I claim, that every day on the road provides you with challenges, alarmingly like what I mentioned.

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