Day 1- 14.53 p.m. Now I am in the middle of the big adventure. I am sitting peacefully and quietly in Billund airport. Edel just left. We had a wonderful trip down here. We got a delicious steak in a cosy cafeteria. I have been rather stressed today. On the way down here I wondered if I was bringing too much weight. Each extra kilo kosts 229 DKR: Luckily I got my extemption for another 10 kilo, a total of 30 kilo. I was carrying exactly 30 kilo, when I used one of my small bike bags as hand luggage. I have divided my Yens in 2 parts. One around my neck and another in a money cat around my waist. The very stressfull circumstances forced me to get a paper and be on the way to leave the shop without paying for it. I found out about it myself, before it was too late. The plane for Paris is leaving 5.10 p.m., in 2 hours. I have a non-smoking-window-seat. We checked in at an extremely nice and positive young girl. A good start. She put a "be careful/glass" label on my bike. We keep our fingers crossed. 11.23 p.m. : I am now in the plane on my way to Narita, and I have been on my way for 3 hours. In the plane from Billund, I happened to sit next to a young man, who was going to Bordeaux. It was not until we were leaving the plane, we found out, that we were both bicycle riders.

He was going to Bordeaux to ride as a semi pro. He had ridden in the B-division in Odense CK. He was almost eating his heart out, when he heard that I had got an extemption for the extra weight I was carrying.He himself had had to pay about 1200 kr to get the bikes on the plane. All planes were somewhat/very delayed. Mine for about 40 minutes, so I had very little time to waste. It proved out that I was going to another terminal in paris, which I reached by shuttle bus - but I made it in due time. A nice lady saw to that I got a window seat in the non smoking department. The disadvantage with these windows seats is that it's very troublesome to get to the rest room. More or less the plane was filled with Japanese travellers.The white people present can practically be counted on one hand. I am sitting next to 2 extremely nice ladies, who are in a party of 14 persons on a 10 days trip in Central europe.The young lady next to me sees to that I understand what's happening around me. She works in an office in Yokohama. She has tried to teach me how to eat with chop sticks, but she had to give it up. I had a Japanese beer, and she was pleased to learn that I liked it. She explains very carefully about the consistency of the food, and how to eat it. She has also given me a number of useful information, which I am sure I can use later on.
We are flying at a speed of 1000 km per hour, and a short while ago we passed south of Copenhagen, before we head for Russia. I do not think I shall get much sleep, but one can always take a nap. So far so good. I wonder how much rain there is in a rainy season?

Shirako, Sunday 28th June 2.07 pm.
I popped in a coffe bar, where it is rather cool. Outside is like an oven.

I had a wonderful flight, although I grew more and more nervous the closer we got to Narita. I became very good friends with my "neighbours". I do not recall that I slept at all, but time went on quickly. Food was served constantly; the staff was extremely kind. We landed after an extra round for about half an hour, and then I was in Japan. The formalities were taken care of in no time, and then I had to find my way out of the airport. I received a lot of help at the information desk. I went out into the hall and assembled my bike. This was done without great difficulty. My right brake lever had been beaten askew, but that was very easy to fix. Finding the way from the airport was rather hectic, but I did manage. The air was incredibly hot and humid. After 12 km I arrived in a town, Tomisato, where 2 ladies went around firing fireworks with a bunch of kids. I showed my card to them, which one of the ladies read to them all, whereupon they all applauded.They said it was OK for me to put my tent up there.

To my big surpise it grew pitch-dark before 8. I went for a walk and bought myself a Sapoporo beer. I also went into a place from where I was sent away." Japanese only". Now I have tried that as well! It rained a little bit, but that was no problem.There were a lot of mosquitoes, but it was so dark that I had to sleep with my tent door open. I could not fall asleep, but apart from that I had no jet lag problems. The temperature only drops a little at night time.Towards the early morning I fell asleep, but I got up early.

A man was walking his dog, and I had seen that he circled around me. At last he took courage and said: "Good morning". Then we started talking. He proved to be the father of one of the children I had met the night before. Eventually he invited me to come to his home. I accepted. He lived just around the block. His son helped me pack my stuff, a very nice boy, 7 years old. Japanese breakfast was served. Oh yes, there was fish all right. To start with they asked me if I could eat Japanese breakfast.
It occured to me, that I perhaps could deposit the bicycle bag in my new friend's house and we agreed upon that. Then I do not have to go to Shibayama tomorrow. After a few attempts of asking my way I found the route along the coast. Everybody was very helpful. Here at the coast it is easy to find the way. The heat is terrible. Here in the coffee house it's nice and cool. 2 cups of coffee, 800 Yen. Then I know about that next time. I am riding another 20 km along the coast before I cross to the other side of the peninsula. I think I will ride for 1½ to 2 hours more before I try to find a place to sleep. I intend to camp in the open.Unfortunately my back hurts a lot after the first night in my tent. It's better, when I ride my bike. If not I get these terrible rushes of pain. Thanks for coffee. I succeeded in choosing the wrong way a number of times. The signs on the minor roads are only in Japanese, and then you are lost. By asking my way a lot of times I finally found 465 Route, but I kept loosing it. Right after Otaki I had to climb a small mountain, and at the top I saw the field I was looking for. There were a few bushes around the field, so I could not be spotted. Right on the other side of the road was a Coca Cola vending machine, which was constantly in use throuhout the night. It is unbelievable that a vending machine can be left alone in the country side, but it's working out fine. My back was a little better, but not too good. I did not sleep well at all. Jet lag. I got up a little after 4 a.m. and then off I went at 5 o'clock. All my bags and stuff were swarming with some small, disgusting caterpillars, when I got up.

It was a wonderful morning. Not quite as hot as the last few days. I had to ride a little in mountains, but not very much. There were quite a number of cars in the roads despite the fact that it was very early. I wonder why?
I succeeded very well in getting to the coast, but then everything went wrong. I got lost in Kisarazu, which proved to be an enormous city. While I was there, I had a lot of showers, forcing me to seek shelter.One of the places was a 7-eleven shop. A lady came out and gave me an umbrella for the ride. I thanked her and parked it next time, I had to stop. In that 7-eleven shop, I was wearing my "Global rider" jacket. That created a lot of enthusiasm. The ladies clapped in their small hands. At a certain point I asked for the way to Kimitzu in a TV-shop. That caused some problems, because I was already in kimitzu.The last part of the stretch from Kimitzu to the ferry in Kanaya was a night mare. There was severe traffic, so it was extremely unpleasant. City all the way. I cannot help comparing with the conditions in northern Norway. I bought myself a ticket for the ferry to Kurihama, which left shortly after my entering.On board I bought a cup of coffee. On board was also a party from Nagano, who really was looking for a good time.

Very quixkly I found the road I was looking for and crossed to the other side of the small peninsula. Here was just as much traffic as on the other side, but things went on a little calmer. There is nothing but built-up area here. Not much fun about riding here. The stretch they call a bicycle path is bumpy, rough and provided with trees and other obstacles, and when you are supposed to ride here for about 300-400 km it is not working. One has to use the road, and the drivers more or less seem to put up with that. There are a number of tunnels here, and they are always nasty. I arrived at Kamakua, which seems to be a sort of bathing area. There is a Youth Hostel here, but how do you find it? I cannot see any signs. I showed the address to a young couple, but with no result. I went on for a while and suddenly I spotted a park, which is beautifully placed close to the coast. Here is a toilet and water and a beautiful view. So this is where I am staying tonight. Here are also a couple of buzzards. My plan is to put up the tent exactly when it gets dark. I suppose I will manage. - Things are going very slowly along here because of the severe traffic. After 30 km on the coast road, which I hope to finish tomorrow morning, I am riding into the country towards Mt. Fuji. That's going to be tough. Although the sun has not been shining today, my arms have been severely burned by the sun. I have more or less countless mosquito bites.

The day where I was riding towards Mt. Fuji. The moment I left the coast road, the road got extremely steep. The heat causes the sweat to come forward after few hundred meters on the bike. It went up and up for several kilometres until I got to Hakkone National Park. A very beautiful place, but still a lot of traffic. On a certain point I went up an extraordinaily steep road and I had not seen any signs for quite a while. By asking my way I discovered that I had ridden too far so I wheeled the 3-4 km down again. On my way down I said hello to a sign with the text 10 %.
Up, up, up I went, but everything comes to an end, and also this ride, whereupon I went down the mountain to a beautiful lake. Had it been Europe the place would have been crowded with camping sites, but here none were to be found. All of a sudden I was in a big city Fujioshida, where I had a cup of coffee at McDonald's. I was explained how to find the way to Mt. Fuji and rode 3-4 km in that direction in an attempt to find a place to camp.With no result I tried in a place which looked like a kind of conference centre. Then I discovered a sort of nature centre on a side road. I went inside and showed my card to a couple of young girls who talked and giggled. It occurred to them that there was a place I could use 500 meters down the road. One of the girls spoke English rather well. I found the place which used to be a place where people could have picnics with barbecue etc. But now it was empty. I made my camp and sat and rested, when I suddenly discovered that the 2 girls had reurned to see how I was doing. They showed me where I could get some water. I can possibly need that when I am going uphill for 29.5 kilometers tomorrow to the top of Mt. Fuji.

When I sleep at 8 o'clock, where it gets dark, it's very easy to get up 4.30 am. That's what I did this morning too. It started out with 7.5 % and went on that way more or less. I had to pay after a couple of kilometers, 330 Yen. I had decided to rest for every 1000 m, but very quickly I stopped for every 500 m. That doesn't sound like very much, but I needed that break. For once there was not much traffic, and it was a very beautiful place. Finally I reached the top of the mountain, and then tourism was to be found. Numerous "gift-shops", banks, post office etc. There were many people. This stop is in 2200 m above sea level, and from there you can walk on. There were a lot of local guides with horses, waiting to get a job. It looked a bit like Himalaya. I spend 1½ hours watching what was to be seen and then down I went. The road surface was very fine, so I kept a decent speed downhill, and If one compares with the time it took me to get to the top it was over almost before I started. I had planned to stop at McDonald's for a cup of coffee, but by accident I found myself on the way to enter a toll road, so I gave it up. Instead I went out 52 Route towards the coast again. There were still hills and mountains and the eternal traffic. I could not spot any cities on my map, but when it came to reality there were plenty.The evening was about to come and I started looking for a camp when suddenly a spoke in my rear wheel broke. At first I could not find the correct tool and I got the wind up. However I found it and fixed the wheel.
There is no "Down town" in the cities, so you cannot see how far you have come into them. At one time I was riding out of a small road, and I showed my card to an elderly couple. They talked for a while, and then they got hold of a grand child, who showed me a good spot. It was a little green place, just big enough for my tent, by a river.I made my camp and a little later the little girl's father and mother passed by to say hello. Furthermore I chatted with people, who happened to pass by. At last I was contacted by a teacher, who had lived in Canada and therefore of course spoke very good English. We talked for a while but unfortunately I forgot to get her name.

But next morning at 5.30 she turned up again, and the we exchanged addresses. Furthermore she brought me a city map and a small box of sake. Nice lady. I packed my gear and was very anxious as to if more spokes would break, but fortunately they did not.It looked like rain, but it kept dry. But with the kind of heat which is here from the early morning a little rain would have been ok. I arrived at the coast road, where I should follow 150 Route. The traffic on 52 Route was really bad and so was the first part of 150 Route. It seems that the roads in Demark are about ½ meter wider. I have given up the socalled bicycle paths. By using them, one never gets anywhere. It was an uncanny hot day. I visited numerous shops to buy something to drink. I forced a littlle food down although I was not hungry. It is liquids that counts. In all shops there is a microwave oven, so you can have a hot meal for about 15 - 20 kroner. I try some different liquids, some of them are very disgusting. In a 7-eleven shop I met a young shop assistant, who had spent some time in USA, and then a lot of talking went on.
After 110 km I planned to go into pit, but I hit an enormous city. It looked as if finding a camp site would be very difficult. I also found a number of spooky hotels, but that money can be spent in a better way. Finally I saw a parking lot with grass. An old man was messing around with some plant poisin and after having read my card (I just love that card) he said, that it was ok for me to camp there. It is still 25 degr. C and I am lying in the shade, because I have been severely burned by the sun; 5 meters to my right a big truck is parked, and 20 meters to my left there is a bungalow. Highway 7 is situated 100 meters from here, but strangely enough I feel quite safe everywhere. The people I meet are extremely friendly, and they bow and say thank you all the time.I myself have also started doing the same things.But "When in Rome..."
It's so relaxing to lie here ind the grass and enjoy a single beer, but a Japanese language course would have been useful. I hope to get to Kanmaki sometimes Saturday afternoon. But you never know. Let's wait and see. A couple og mountains seem to be placed where I am supposed to ride.